Ensenada Dakity, Culebra |
Thanks to everyone in the last months who said "use a pink squiddie" - a tuna caught on the approach to Culebra |
Otra Vida´s short stop at Grenada, anchored off Hog Island,
was delightful and surprising. It is
quite unlike Trinidad to the south or the Grenadines and other islands further
north. Sunday afternoon at Roger´s Bar
on Hog Island is legendary, and rightly so: the stuff that Caribbean dreams really
are made of.
St Maarten I knew from 2011, and it is what it is : a superb
provisioning and refitting stop with a large yachtie community that congregates
around some rather good yachtie bars. It
is mostly long term yachties, and the atmosphere is agreeable. I like St Maarten, but wouldn’t choose to
stay there more than a week or two.
The view out to the anchorage at Boquerón |
Culebra, though, is special, and perhaps is what the
Caribbean was like when Jimmy Buffett and Herman Wouk wrote about it. Uncrowded, with mostly long term cruisers
anchored in the bays, some local boats, and a few larger sport boats of wealthy
Puerto Ricans from the mainland having a weekend away. There are a handful of bars and restaurants,
all of the barefoot variety, many with small docks to tie up your dinghy. Everyone is friendly. Even checking in with Customs and Immigration
was a delight.
Culebra´s only claim to international fame is Flamingo
Beach, rated 3rd best beach in the world by someone who keeps count
of these things. It is a lovely spot, a
curved bay with perfect palm trees, turquoise water, soft white sand. Naturally it is a bit more commercialised and
a bit more crowded, but not excessively so.
Flamingo Beach, Culebra |
Flamingo Beach aside, the rest of Culebra is a very special
place, thankfully not yet of international note. The Dinghy Dock bar is the centre of yachtie
and shoreside social life and is never dull.
On the western end of Puerto Rico is another gem, Boquerón. A place that could actually pass as Margaritaville, rather than the Margaritaville theme park feel of the Virgin Islands.
The sun falls behind a hill a quarter mile aft of Otra
Vida. The sky changes quickly to dusk
and the first stars appear in the sky above the stars created by sailboat
masthead lights in the anchorages. The
loom of St Thomas, an orange-yellow flare into the sky in one spot to the east,
is in distinct contrast to the lack of loom from the necklace of lights along Culebra´s
tiny main settlement at the head of the bay.
An hour or so later the full moon starts to rise, orange-yellow too but
much cleaner and brighter, gradually lightening to cream as it rises. A few strategically placed small clouds
complete the picture. To the left the
insistent sound of crickets in trees, to the right the soothing sounds of waves
gently breaking on the reef.
Boquerón |
I could easily spend longer here, but this time I cannot: I
am on a mission. My mother had a
significant stroke in February and my sister and I continue to work on her
rehabilitation. The only reason I am
sailing now is to get Otra Vida to a safe place before hurricane season. There
is another 1100nm of sailing to be done in the coming weeks before I return to
the UK by plane from Guatemala. There is
no conflict in this decision – my place is in the UK with family. Nonetheless, I wish I had come across Culebra
earlier. It would be a worthy destination to point the boat at when crossing
the Atlantic.
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